Monday, 21 October 2013

CalPhos

This is an awesome product you can make from ingredients found in your kitchen. It is a nutrient solution for plants just entering the flowering cycle. There is an overlapping activity of Phosporous and Potassium during flowering. In natural farming, we apply calphos before the flower initiation to support the eventual fruit. In simplistic terms, we use Phosphorous to address the root system, which will enable the plant to access better water and nutrients from the soil to support the critical changeover as manifested by flower initiation. We use Calcium to strengthen the plant in preparation for heavy flowers/fruits. Thus, natural farming emphasizes Phosphorus and Calcium during the changeover period from growing to flowering/fruiting, and this provides for that need.

How to Make
  1. Collect a bunch of eggshells and wash to remove inside filaments. Remember, you can also use bones and other good sources of calcium like seashells, clams and oysters, etc. Likewise, if you only want calcium, even limestone can be used, or simple lime, and even baking soda.
  2. Pan fry the eggshells. Fry until some are brown/black, some white. The burnt shells are your Calcium source while the white are the Phosphorus source.
  3. After roasting the eggshells, grind them up. You can do it manually, with a mortar and pestle, throw them in a blender or electric coffee grinder, etc.
  4. Add them to a jar and add 5 parts vinegar by volume. For example, if you have 1 cup ground shells, add 5 cups vinegar.
    • The acid in the vinegar helps digest them. You will notice bubbling as this process converts the ingredients to liquid calcium phosphate.
  5. Wait until tiny bubbles disappear
  6. Seal the jar and ferment for 20 days.
  7. Filter into another jar
  8. Now you've made your own Calcium Phosphate

How to Use
Mix 1tbsp per 3L water
Plants
  • spray on leaves during transition phase to flower, and when fruits are large and mature
    • Transition Phase: Induces flowering, eases nutrient demands of transition phase, strengthens flowers
    • Mature Fruit: Strengthens plant stems, leaves, fruits, helps fruit mature properly for optimum sweet flavor!

Sunday, 6 October 2013

Homemade Fish Fertilizer

Fish fertilizer is an awesome product for promoting plant growth. It’s high in Nitrogen for growing plants, can be naturally produced, and is an awesome food for microbes! Fungi love this stuff. Fish fertilizer can be expensive in the store, but it is easily produced at home. This is a great recipe for making your own fish hydrolysate fertilizer. First lets look at the two main types of fish fertilizer:

Fish Emulsion

Fish emulsion fertilizer is made several different ways depending on who is making it. The important thing to know is that fish emulsion goes through two stages of processing. The first stage breaks down the fish parts using enzymes, proteases, or chemicals. Then, and this is the important part, heat is used to break it down further and allow oils and other things like amino acids to be more easily removed. It’s this second stage of processing that makes fish emulsion less advantageous than fish hydrolysate. Fish emulsion fertilizer lacks many oils and proteins that fish hydrolysate fertilizer has in abundance. So let’s look at that!

Fish Hydrolysate

Fish hydrolysate fertilizer generally starts out the same way as fish emulsion. It gets broken down using enzymes, proteases, or chemicals. However, fish hydryolysate doesn’t undergo the heating and skimming process that you get with the fish emulsion. The higher quality fish hydrolysates only undergo “cold-processing” which just means they are never heated enough to break down significant amino acid chains. Good fish hydrolysate also retains the fats and oils that microbes love!

Fertilizer Recipe
This method of making fish fertilizer is awesome because it is a cold process, chemical-free, completely organic way to make fish fertilizer right at home. While fish emulsion lacks beneficial ingredients vital to the final product, this fish hydrolysate recipe preserves all those active ingredients. You don’t want to miss out on those oils that microbes love. Try this recipe.

How to make your own fish fertilizer:
  1. Buy a Fish
  2. Now, ideally you would throw the fish into a blender to mash it up into little pieces.  I cut my fish into 8ths or so and then chuck it into my kitchen blender but I’m a bit of a caveman.  If you’re squeamish, buy a separate blender for this, just make sure it is powerful enough, mine is 500W and works fine for small-medium size fishes.  Remember, the finer the fish bits, the more effective the fermentation.
  3. Add water.  You can use a simple guide of 3:1 – 3 parts water to 1 part ferment material.  1 roughly 8in tilapia comes to about 500mL when ground up, so I add about 1500mL water.
  4. If you are using a blender, blend up the mixture.  The water helps keep it loose so it blends much better after you add the water.
  5. Add lacto bacilli to blended fish mixture.  I use 2tbsp per L.  You can use more or less if you want.  2tbsp/L is plenty though.
  6. Add 1/3 parts sugar.  This should be 1/3 the amount of fish you’ve added.  Sugar will be either molasses or normal cane sugar.
  7. If using sugar, the equivalency is about 1KG sugar = 1L solution.  So if you have 500mL like my tilapia, you want 1/3 of that in sugar.  You’d use about 167g sugar, or roughly ¾ cup.
  8. I blend the whole mixture up a bit.  It’s good to have it as fine as possible.
  9. Up to you how much you blend it, I blend until I don’t hear so many bones crunching in the blades of the blender.
  10. Now you have liquefied fish, sugar, and lacto.  Pour this mixture into a container.  Loosely cover the container.  No need to seal, because the container will explode as CO2 is released by fermentation.  You just want to make sure other things don’t get into it.  I use a container with a lid and loosely screw the cap on top (just make sure you don’t seal it because it WILL explode).
  11. The process takes anywhere from 3 weeks to over a month.  How do you know its finished?  By the smell.
  12. You know when it’s done when there is no smell anymore.  During fermentation there is a nasty smell, but once completed, there will be almost no odor.  You can open it, and put your nose right up to it.  Take a whiff.  Nothing but a faint vinegar smell.  Now you know its done.  Congratulations!  You’ve made your own Fish Hydrolysate!
  13. Now, usually I transfer it to a smaller container, usually just a smaller water bottle, just for convenience.  At this time, I use a strainer and a funnel to strain the bones and scales out of the hydrolysate.  But don’t expect a lot.  From a whole 8-10in tilapia, you will only get a little tiny pile of bones/scales.  They will feel kind of rubbery, not brittle.  Throw these in the compost pile or garden, they are excellent fertilizer and microbe food, already inoculated with microbes!
  14. Leave the cap on the strained concoction loose until you see no more little bubbles forming.  Then cap it and store it for use as your own natural fertilizer.

How to use this fish fertilizer:
Mix 1tbsp/2L for applications.
 Plants
  • Use as a soil drench as opposed to foliar spray.
  • Inoculate compost to boost fungal population.  This is huge – major growth booster of fungus.
  • Use in compost teas to boost fungal growth, add Nitrogen.  Use at ¼ strength for this application(1/2 tbsp per 4L).
  • Mix in water when watering plants, as a natural fish fertilizer and to enhance populations of micro-organisms in the soil






TIP: ALWAYS USE NON-CHLORINATED WATER.  Chlorine kills microbes.  Simply let your chlorinated tap water sit for several hours, allowing the chlorine to dissipate.  I let it sit overnight generally.

TIP:  Try not to use cane sugar since it is chemically bleached.  Raw(unrefined) sugar like muscovado is best.  In the Philippines we use molasses because it is cheap, but any glucose source works – syrup, honey, etc.  Just use whatever is cheap.  Glucose gives microbes energy.  Whatever you have access to cheaply, go for it.

Coffee Grounds

Hi Everyone
Lately i have been trying out new ways to feed my ladies naturally. I found a that just normal coffee grounds are a great source for that. 
So dont through out your ground reuse them , add them to your soil mixes , make teas or just simply add it to the top of your pots. 
Another benefit of this is that ants hate coffee grounds as when they eat them they dies or mx the grounds with cinnamon and you will have a three fold solution , what i mean by that is .
You will get the benefits of the grounds for your ladies , the grounds will help keep ants at bay and finally if you add a bit of cinnamon you will keep the gnat flies away as well ( cinnamon is poison to ants as well)

Taken from MP forums:
Yes they are excellent choices as organic fertilizers. If you use them, use less or no synthetic (commercial) fertilizers. Since coffee grounds lack phosphorus (the key ingredience in fertilizers for flowering plants) it is better on non-flowering shrubs, foliage plants and grass than flowers. However, if used in combination with phosphorus (e.g. super phosphate or rock phosphate) it is excellent -- and cheap. You can buy super phosphate and rock phosphate at garden centers and home improvement centers.

Used coffee grounds contain about two percent nitrogen, about a third of a percent of phosphoric acid, and one percent potash; DRY WEIGHT. If you could buy coffee grounds in bags at garden centers the 3 numbers on the bag would be 2-0.33-1

It is not particularily "slow release" as typical of most organic fertilizers. Most of the nitrogen will be available pretty fast. This means you have to watch out not applying too high quantities at one time, and that more then one application during the growing season may be needed but in smaller volumes at a time.

Analysis of coffee grounds also shows that they contain many minerals, including trace minerals and carbohydrates. This makes it a good fertilizer.

Since coffee grounds are acidic they are particularly useful on those plants for which you would purchase and apply an “acid food,” such as blueberries, evergreens, azaleas, roses, camellias, etc. They would not be ideal around plants like lupins which require a sweet soil. If your soil is naturally alkaline (e.g. pH higher than 7.0) using coffee grounds is extra beneficial.

Since coffee grounds tend to get moldy, they should be incorperated into the soil, or dried and used as mulch.
If you have problems with too high pH, the use of coffee grounds are a good solution.

You can also dilute the grounds with water, and water the plants with the "tea" created. This is a good way to get plants growing immediately. Just avoid using around very small seedlings as it can burn the young plants. for established plants it is great.

Dose:
use about 6 table spoons per plant dug in near the roots, or in pots. You can also mix in a 1/4 - 1/2" layer and mix it in thoroughly in the top of the soil. The coffee grounds will help aerate the soil and provide nitrogen and potash to the plants. The phosphorus, should be added seperately, however, such as rock phosphate (0-4-0) or super phosphate (0-20-0) available at garden centers.

Nug Shots

Hi Everyone 
I have been growing out Skunk x Haze Auto's for a local breeder and i must say its a wonderfull strain, Needs a little work on getting a uniform height but the smoke is out of this world

Thought i would share my sunday smoke with you guys , nice and sticky





Kelp

Kelp is any of a variety of large, brown seaweeds 
that grow underwater and on rocky shores. Kelps are 
found in cold waters throughout the world.

Kelps vary widely in size and form. One type of kelp, 
called giant kelp, may have hundreds of branches, each 
of which has hundreds of leaves. Giant kelp may reach 
over 200 feet in length and will create entire forests 
of kelp. Other kelp consists of only a single branch 
and may be less than 3 feet long. But what they all 
share is that it is hard to tell the stems from the leaves.

The role of kelp in agriculture dates back thousands of 
years, and has been an integral part of coastal farming. 
It can be said with honesty that kelp is the most effective 
additive next to quality fertilizer.

The kelp that has the most importance for our needs is a 
kelp that grows in the cold canadian waters of the Atlantic 
Ocean, it is called Ascophyllum Nodosum. There are many kelps 
that have great benefits for agriculture but this particular 
kelp has the gold medal.

Ascophyllum is harvested by collecting from either the rocky 
shores or using a type of dredge or seine to catch it. It is 
then washed with fresh water to rid it of excess sea salt and 
then it is dried and powdered. It is very important that they 
harvest it at just the right time to ensure that the cytokinin 
levels are at their peak (cytokinins are growth hormones 
responsible for cell division in plants).

Kelp contains many wonderful things such as over 70 minerals 
and trace elements, growth hormones, vitamins, enzymes, and proteins.

It has been proven that kelp or what is in kelp can accelerate growth, 
increase fruiting and flowering, provide resistance to disease, insects 
and frost. There are a couple of things that are important in regards 
to the benefits of kelp and how they work. The first one is all of the 
trace elements and minerals which are aided by a carbohydrate mannitol 
that chelates or makes available certain minerals. One of the problems 
of modern farming is enabling the plant to take up all of the nutrients 
to complete a healthy life cycle. Chelates are very important in 
allowing plants to take up certain essential elements. What researchers 
have discovered is that with so many trace elements and minerals as 
well as vitamins and enzymes not to mention growth hormones, kelp 
aids in building and or supporting the plants natural immune system. 
If you can keep a plants immune system high it will have the ability 
to resist disease, insects, frost, and drought.

The second important and perhaps the most important aspect of kelp 
is the growth hormones. Kelp contains ample quantities of auxins, 
gibberellins, and cytokinins. All growth hormones play a part in 
how a plant functions, and are more accurately called growth 
regulators. Kelp has very high amounts of a particular hormone, 
cytokinin. Cytokinins are responsible for cell division, cell 
enlargement, differentiation of cells, development of chloroplasts 
as well as a delay in aging.

When kelp is used regularly you will notice that the overall health 
of the plant will increase and that when applied at certain times 
major growth will occur.

There are many ways to use kelp with foliar spraying being the most 
effective. You can improve specific growth stages by applying kelp 
with a specific response in mind. For example, if your tomatoes or 
peas are starting to bud, you can apply kelp to promote additional 
buds. If you require more root growth then you would apply it to 
the root zone after transplanting. Cytokinins respond within what 
ever stage that the plant is in. Spray in vegetative then you will 
experience more vegetative growth, spray in flower then you will 
experience more flowering etc...

There are several forms that kelp comes in and some forms offer 
more benefits than others. Granular kelp is often mixed in with 
other fertilizers and doesn't contain as high concentrations of 
ytokinins as liquid concentrate. If you are looking to supplement 
your present fertilizer regime then you would probably add 
powdered kelp. If however you are trying to promote more 
flowering or budding sites then you would use a concentrated 
liquid kelp product such as Growth Max or Growth Plus which 
both have a cytokinin level of 400 ppm.

Foliar spraying is the most effective way of applying kelp, 
since leaves are up to 8 times more effecient in taking in of 
nutrients than through the root system. When foliar spraying 
try to apply in the early morning when the plant is the most 
active and the stomata are open to their fullest, avoid 
praying before it rains, use high quality water with a ph 
of 6.0, and any foliar spray benefits from a non ionic wetting 
agent such as Mega Wet.

In conclusion, kelp can help germinate seeds quicker, improve 
taking of cuttings, encourage rooting, build immunity, add more 
colour and flavour, give a longer shelf life, produce more and 
larger buds and flowers, counter any nutrient defiencies, 
and fight off insects and disease. Kelp is truly mother natures 
gift to the modern gardener.

Thursday, 26 September 2013

The art of selection and breeding fine quality cannabis

By DJ Short - Friday, March 7 2003

Perhaps the most important aspect to consider in the breeding of fine quality cannabis is that of selection. Selective breeding is where all of today's varieties evolved from.
In the past, this chore was made easier by the fact that most of the commercially available herb was seeded and imported from outdoor plantations, usually near-equatorial in origin. These "land-race" Sativa varieties were the building blocks of the burgeoning domestic productions of the times.
The Indica (Afghan, Kush, Skunk, etc.) genetics were specially imported by West Coast interests and available to the general public around 1978. It was shortly after this time that the variance of domestic cannabis increased exponentially, as people began experimenting with crossing these two different types of pot.
Beginning breeding
The typical way to begin a breeding program is to carefully select P1 parents of pure Sativa and pure Indica, crossing them to produce an f1 hybrid that is uniform in its phenotypic growth patterns. The next step is the crossing of the f1 type with itself, which produces a very wide variation witnessed in the f2 growth patterns and expressions.
It is in this f2 second-generational cross and beyond that the art of selection really comes into play. There are a number of factors to consider at this point, such as what the male and female will each contribute; and most of all, what will the overall quality of the finished product be like?
Defining a goal and constructing a plan to accomplish it is called "top-down" programming, and this "top-down" approach applies well to cannabis breeding. It helps considerably to have a specific goal in mind when attempting to selectively breed a variety of ganja. This simple fact I cannot emphasize enough.
One must at least have an idea of what one is aiming for before beginning. For me this has little to do with plant structure and much to do with the quality of the finished product, no matter what form it is in. Having an experienced and educated palate (both mentally aesthetic and physically discernable) is key in the art of breeding fine quality cannabis.
The "goal" at the center of most of my breeding targets would be to replicate, as near as possible, the experiences produced by the great land-race varieties of old: Highland Oaxacan or Thai, Santa Marta or Acapulco Gold, Guerrero Green, Panama Red or Hawaiian Sativa? or the hash from regions such as Lebanon, Afghanistan or Nepal.
The indoor grow environment is too generic to fully replicate the great old legends. Therefore, it was necessary to settle for the next best thing: happy Sativa/Indica crosses that would perform well indoors. (It is interesting to note here that most of the fine land-race Sativa were hermaphroditic, though sometimes only minimally.)
Outdoor Australian Sativa; inset: seeded bud Outdoor Australian Sativa; inset: seeded budSelection process
Obviously, you seek the parents that will produce the desired progeny. Paradoxically, this process requires selecting the best after they've been harvested. The solution is to keep samples from each plant of a test crop. This can be done via rooted clones from earlier cuttings, or re-greened mothers and fathers kept in a vegetative state and a high-nitrogen diet. Once you have chosen among the harvested plants, you can use the rooted cuttings for future consideration and possible breeding.
Pollen may also be gathered and immediately stored via vacuum sealing and deep-freezing. It is crucial to vacuum seal and freeze pollen immediately after it is collected and to use stored pollen immediately after it thaws. Dry seeds also store well over indefinite periods of time in an undisturbed deep-freeze, with some desiccant.
This process of post-harvest selection works fine for selecting desired female plants. But what about males? What is the best and most simple way to select males for breeding? Due to the fact that it is the female plants that we are ultimately familiar with, selecting males is a bit more involved.
The process is basically the same as it is with female plants, except with males the numbers are first limited down via a process of elimination, and selections made by comparing the remainder. Selecting males also takes a little more time initially as the quality of the male is not fully determined until after the seeds it produces are grown out and tested. As one becomes more familiar with a particular strain, the specific characteristics of the desirable males become apparent.
Ideally, the more seeds one starts with the better. This is, after all, a numbers game. I will assume that any basic breeding project starts with at least 20 different plants, from 20 viable seeds of high quality, professionally stabilized varieties. This would give a minimum of 10 male and 10 female plants hopefully sexed by two weeks into a flowering light cycle (short day/long night).
Once sexed, the process of elimination may begin. All of the females are kept and regularly examined to prevent unwanted hermaphroditism. Unwanted males and all hermaphrodites must be eliminated before they begin to shed pollen ? usually by the third week in the flowering cycle. The female plants need to be checked for hermaphroditism until harvest.
(A quick word on "backward" hermaphrodites ? declared males that eventually sport female flowers ? as opposed to the usual female-to-male hermaphrodites. These are semi-rare occurrences, usually sterile but sometimes viable, that I have found at times to be valuable in their genetic contributions. Some of the most resinous and desirable males I have encountered exhibited this trait. This trait almost seems to guarantee against unwanted hermaphroditism in subsequent generations as it also increases the female to male ratio in its progeny.)
Recessivecombination
A word needs to be said about the not-too-common probabilities of what I generally refer to as a recessive combination phenomenon. Sometimes, though not often, two parents that appear to express a common desirable trait ? let's say a sweet/fruity bouquet ? are crossed and the progeny do not express the desirable trait.
This usually means that one or both parents possessed some sort of recessive alleles in their genotype for this characteristic. But it could also mean that the progeny had a different environment that the parents.
If environment can be ruled out then it is likely that some sort of a genetic recessive combination is the cause. If none of the progeny express the desired characteristic one may want to cross the progeny with itself and see what the outcome is.
If a common "Punnet ratio" such as 25% of a progeny express the desirable trait, then the trait is more than likely recessive and the trait may be stabilized via crossing any two of the 25% (or whatever common ratio) that show the desired trait with each other. This process is time consuming and is generally followed only if no other alternatives exist.
Male plants showing their sex.Male plants showing their sex.Selecting males
I prefer to remove all of the males from the grow-room to a separate, isolated space shortly after they declare their sex and well before they begin to shed pollen. A small space lit with simple fluorescent light will suffice for the males for the next few weeks. During this time the female buds will fatten with more flowers while your collection of males is selected down.
I generally employ a simple process of elimination while selecting males. First, any auto-flowering or very early-declared males are eliminated. (Auto-flowering means that male flowers form regardless of light cycle timing.) This is mainly to insure against hermaphroditism or unwanted flowering traits, but also as a means to insure quality. The very early declared males have a tendency to be less desirable in terms of their contributions to the quality of the finished product. (If you are trying to specifically create an early-flowering strain, then your priorities may be different.)
Next, any male plant that grows too tall or too fast is usually eliminated. The reason for this is that most plants which dedicate so much energy to fiber production generally are best for making fiber. The exception to this rule is when an over-productive plant also exhibits a number of the desirable characteristics mentioned later.
The next criteria for elimination is borrowed from Michael Starks' book, Marijuana Potency, and involves stem structure. Large, hollow main stems are sought while pith-filled stems are eliminated. Backed by years of observation, I agree that hollow stems do seem to facilitate THC production.
Another consideration is the type of floral clusters that develop. Even on males, clusters which are tight, compact and yet very productive are desired over an airy, loose structure. These observations are most notable in the indoor environment. Outdoors, the differences in stem and floral structures are more difficult to discern.
The next and perhaps most important characteristic to examine is that of odor, flavor and trichome development. Again, the females will prove themselves by their finished product, but the males are a bit trickier.
I usually begin with a Sativa female and an Indica male. It has been my observation that the females primarily contribute the type of flavor and aroma and the males contribute the amount of flavor and odor. The "Sativa/Indica" aspects of this formula are mainly apparent in the P1 or very early filial crosses (to about f3). Beyond the f3 generation the apparent "Sativa/Indica" ratio in a given individual is less important than the odor/flavor and trichome development aspects it exhibits. Therefore, one of the main aspects to consider when selecting a male is the depth of its aroma and flavor. (If you are seeking to develop a low-odor indoor strain you might wish to begin with a low-odor Sativa male and an Indica female.)
With the remaining males I usually employ an odor/flavor test. Using males at least two or three weeks into the flowering cycle (and preferably beyond if a separate, isolated space is being used), a sort of "scratch-and-sniff" technique is first employed. With clean, odor-free fingers, gently rub one plant at a time, on the stem where it is well developed and pliable, above the woody part and below the developing top (approximately at the spot where a clone would be cut). The newer leaves at their halfway point of development may also be rubbed and sniffed.
These are the places that the earliest chemical signatures of a developing plant present themselves, and it is our intent to gently disturb these chemicals and inspire an odor/flavor reaction on the fingers and on the plant. By examining these various aromas in this way one may be able to determine certain desirable (and also undesirable) characteristics. After clearing one's palate and refreshing one's fingers, another plant may be tested.
The finalists are best compared for at least a week and at different times of day, to determine who performs best over a period of time.
A few of the "good" aromas which I have found to be associated with both male and female high quality cannabis are: sweet, floral, fruity, berry, wine/brandy, other savory spirits, skunky and spearmint. Some of the "bad" aromas associated with both male and female cannabis are: grassy, chlorophyll (green), celery, parsley, carrots, cinnamon, pepper-mint or wintergreen, gear-oil and gasoline. Some of the aromas that are considered "good" from females but not necessarily from males are: woody, cedar, pine, citrus, tropical fruit, chocolate, vanilla, coffee, garlic and astringent.
Worldwide weed
It is sad that due to the Unfortunate State of Assholes in the world today we herbalists are treated criminally. Sad because given saner times we would be able to produce vast amounts of fine quality herb by virtue of no more than the great outdoors, large numbered populations and trial and error.
Someday perhaps, but in the meantime I have few alternate suggestions. Holland, Denmark, Switzerland, Spain and other parts of Europe are opening up more and more toward herbal tolerance. It is relatively easy in these places to score some high quality product.
It is advisable for the newbie to a scene to buy many small samples of herbals at first until one finds what one likes. Just like in any other travel situation, special surprises await those willing to venture out from the centralized tourist areas (except in Christiania where "one stop shopping" is greatly enjoyed).
I am willing to bet that some of the many herbal "sweet spots" around the globe may once again be producing their specialties. I am eager to verify any rumor of such possibilities. These sweet spots would include many equatorial and near equatorial regions such as Colombia, Highland Mexico, parts of Thailand, Burma and Bhutan to name a few. Places such as Nepal and Jamaica have been ideal for herbal expeditions as well. These are some of the places one could venture in search of educating one's herbal palate and expanding one's experience. n
Constant testing
After selections are made, it is also necessary to remember to test for these qualities across a number of clone generations. Do the desirable characteristics present in a new plant (from seed) persist through the following clone generations of that plant? Does the plant from clones of the original carry the same odor/flavor quality? The same potency? Overall desirability? The answers most definitely need to be "yes" if that individual is to be considered for future breeding.
With much practice and years of experience it becomes apparent to those with a sensitive palate which individuals possess the most desirable characteristics from a given sample.
I suggest that your taste and smell be augmented with the use of an illuminated magnifier, either 30X, 60X or 100X power
will do.
Look at the same aforementioned spot on the stem or developing leaves any time after the second week in the bud cycle and look for the greatest abundance of developing trichomes or secretory hairs (hairs that secrete fluid obvious at 30X and above magnification). More fully developed trichomes with very clear heads are generally the most desirable.
These observations need to be done over a period of time (that is, not just a one-time look) and at different times of the day to determine which individuals perform best. Many various phenomena become apparent to those who are able to pay close attention over a period of time. To that effect I suggest you compile and composite detailed notes on one's observations, and to compare those notes over time. Detailed, comprehensive notes are the hallmark of any successful breeding program.
It is possible to test males by smoking or otherwise consuming them. This practice may be somewhat beneficial to beginners as it does involve a sort of obvious discretion. I suggest using only fresh tips, properly cured and rolled into a joint. Also, make sure that this test smoke is the first smoke one consumes in a day in order to best discern its qualities, or lack thereof.
Male plants showing their sex.Some other aspects to consider
There are a number of aesthetic considerations to consider regarding fine quality cannabis breeding, such as color, overall structure, growth patterns and various bouquets. My primary goal involves finding the finished product with the most desirable and pleasant effects. So I focus on those aspects and stabilize them first. Once stabilized, a backcross or a cross to another variety may be utilized to further improve the line and/or increase vigor, if necessary.
On the experimental level the finished product is expected to be either pleasant or powerful, depending on the individual. I prefer an herb that is pleasantly powerful or powerfully pleasant! So that is the sought-after goal. The range of experiences elicited by cannabis can vary from bliss to panic to stupefying. I much prefer the bliss aspects.
The best descriptive dichotomy in this case would be comfort vs. discomfort. I also suppose some personality types may enjoy a more exciting experience ? perhaps only once in awhile ? a feeling somewhat akin to the entertainment of a roller coaster ride or a horror movie.
Cannabis is unusual in its varying effects on our vascular-circulatory system. Some cannabis strains seem to act as a vasodilator and others as a vasoconstrictor. A vasoconstrictor is a substance that constricts blood vessels. It tends to elicit tension, excitement, anxiety, and even panic. A vasodilator is a substance that dilates blood vessels and tends to relax a person more easily into a blissful state. Therefore, I tend to prefer cannabis that seems to act as a vasodilator, simply not to the point of couch lock sedation.
I have nothing against powerfully stony herb. It is just that as long as my breeding space is limited, I will choose to work with the more pleasant varieties ? those that elicit a generally happy experience. Someday I look forward to working at stabilizing many different varieties of herb. After all, to each their own.
Tinnitus and dyskinesia are common symptoms of a vasoconstrictor reaction. Tinnitus is ringing in the ears, and dyskinesia, in this instance, is usually felt as a tingling in the extremities, especially the little fingers, toes and ears. Another bad sign would be any form of tension headache or unwanted body load. If these symptoms occur regularly after indulging in a particular herb, the herb may be contributing to the sensation.
Does it pass the acid test?
To borrow and paraphrase a disclaimer from Dr Hunter S Thompson; "I cannot condone drug usage, but I must admit it has worked well for me." In particular, the psychedelics (entheogens, entactogens, and hallucinogens included) are paramount as a testing tool when breeding fine quality cannabis.
A favored testing formula of mine involves preparations being made days in advance. One needs to have a perfectly cured sample of the herb one wishes to test ready at hand before the test. Fasting (from substances primarily, but also some foods) and cleansing (exercise, sweating or sauna, re-hydration and meditation, etc.) are employed for a period prior to the test. This is to as fully as possible re-calibrate one's baseline state of consciousness to its most basic, clean state.
A time is selected, a toast made and the trip material is ingested. I generally like to eat a simple meal of soup or juice and bread after I ingest a substance and before I begin to alert (first noticing the effect of a substance).
Do not ingest any herb, or any other consciousness-altering substance until after one has alerted, preferably prior to the peak of the trip. Ingest only a small amount of the herb to be tested at first, one toke at a time, unless this is a follow-up test and one is already familiar with the experience.
Ideally, the psychedelic substance will further the range of noticeable subtleties by one's psyche and allow a broader appreciation of the effect from the herb. An herb that is truly powerful and pleasant will usually profoundly express its experience upon the opened mind. That is, if the herb is truly blissful it will become more readily apparent under such psychedelic examination. Likewise, if the herb is somewhat "panicky" or "anxious" in experience, the psychedelic will exacerbate these qualities as well.
I am assuming, and offering fair warning, that those who attempt such a test are well-experienced psychic travelers. That is, all necessary considerations of set and setting must be satisfied before attempting such a trial. The psychedelic substance almost seems to act as a sort of mental catalyst when combined with herb. This combination is able to cause both desirable and undesirable traits of the herb experience to become more so apparent to the initiated mind.
These are some of the techniques, selections and considerations that I employ when breeding fine quality cannabis. Famed horticulturist Luther Burbank's quote: "select the best and reject all others" is the single most important aspect to consider.
With time, focus and patience the knack for recognizing desirable and undesirable traits becomes more apparent. Having an open and curious mind, along with a developed sense of intuition, is beneficial.
May your ventures be fruitful.
Male plants showing their sex.Recessivecombination
A word needs to be said about the not-too-common probabilities of what I generally refer to as a recessive combination phenomenon. Sometimes, though not often, two parents that appear to express a common desirable trait ? let's say a sweet/fruity bouquet ? are crossed and the progeny do not express the desirable trait.
This usually means that one or both parents possessed some sort of recessive alleles in their genotype for this characteristic. But it could also mean that the progeny had a different environment that the parents.
If environment can be ruled out then it is likely that some sort of a genetic recessive combination is the cause. If none of the progeny express the desired characteristic one may want to cross the progeny with itself and see what the outcome is.
If a common "Punnet ratio" such as 25% of a progeny express the desirable trait, then the trait is more than likely recessive and the trait may be stabilized via crossing any two of the 25% (or whatever common ratio) that show the desired trait with each other. This process is time consuming and is generally followed only if no other alternatives exist.Male plants showing their sex.
Male plants showing their sex.Ganja Godesses
One of the things I learned a long time ago was that something more than genetics or biological environment plays a role in the desirability of herb. During the 70's and 80's, as the number of growers proliferated, it became apparent to those privy to the info that a grower's personal vibe somehow became part of the plant's vibe.
Generally speaking, mellow, laid-back growers tended to produce mellow, laid-back herb, whereas uptight, sinister growers tended to produce uptight, sinister herb. Perhaps it was just the vibe of the grower following the product to market expressing itself along the chain of trade, I am not certain, nor do I believe any form of scientific observation will ever confirm such a debate. It has simply been one of those givens in the trade. In that regard, I have further noticed that much of the finest domestic herb I've encountered was grown by women.
I used to call it the "Great Pumpkin" effect, but perhaps it is better termed the "Ganja Goddess" effect. The most sincere herbal patches being visited upon by the subtle and ethereal spirits of benevolence. And subtle is a very key word when considering the desirable characteristics of fine quality cannabis. Subtleties have a way of being very powerful, indeed. While we are considering such aesthetic topics let's have a look at femininity. It is, after all, the female plant we are primarily concerned with.
Male plants showing their sex.One of the most profound aspects of the cannabis experience for me is its ability to act as a counter-balance to my personal, male-dominance syndrome.
Cannabis allows me a reprieve from the otherwise distracting male-conditioned response of attempting to dominate my environment. My conditioning of aggressive competitiveness is temporarily quelled, and I am allowed to experience reality in a much more non-linear relationship. The routine desire to compete and conquer is replaced with a sense of cooperation and community. In a word, I have learned to become a feminist.
By "feminist" I mean the protected right to be feminine, cooperative, community-centered and globally concerned, able and free to discern subtleties, intuitive and submissive without the fear of dominator conquest and control. The fine quality cannabis experience allows me to better understand, accept, and serve fate.
One of the things I have learned about "us" (the cooperators) and "them" (the dominators) is that they need us much more than we need them. This is one fact that I wish very much for our community to realize. Toward realizing that end, I have found the finest quality cannabis to be an invaluable resource.

Do Good and Good Will Come to You

Hi Everyone

I am a firm believer that if you do unconditional good for others good will come back to you , the wheel always turns.
Today the wheel turned in my favour and i felt like christmas had come.
I was given a few wonderful strains to grow out and play with and would just like to thank the people involved ( you know who you are) much good karma coming your way guys!

Watch this space for the next batch of luscious ladies .

Tom Hills Deep Chunk
Flowering Time Indoor: 54 - 58 days (~56 days) 
Yield / Quantity Indoor: The crop of this strain is high. 
General Impression Indoor: is all together extremely good and very recommendable. 
Harvest Time Outdoor: Middle of October +/- 1 Week in CmShβ climates.
Strength / Lasting Effect: The weed affects slightly above average. 
Yield / Quantity Outdoor: The crop of this strain is very high. 
General Impression Outdoor: is all together extraordinary and quite recommendable. 
Votings of our users: Deep Chunk gets 8.29 of 10 possible Points in the average!


ZAMBEZA - WHITE CHEESE: RECOGNIZABLE BY HER TYPICAL CHEESE SCENT.

White Cheese by Zambeza is the feminized strain that has rocked part of the cannabis world in the UK for many years. She is known for her distinctive taste and smell as well as her great production and quality buds. She is easy to grow and has a flowering period of about 7 to 8 weeks. She has an astonishing and typical smell during flowering and of course when she is finished. This specific quality has led many experienced growers to being interested in this strain but she is also a real recommended strain for the beginning grower that likes a bit variation in his or her garden.
Zambeza’s White Cheese is a great smoke both for her flavor as well as her effect. Her delicious cheesy taste goes together with a very powerful, long-lasting and uplifting high.

  • Yield (indoor): 450 - 550 Grams per m2
  • Type: Indica/Sativa
  • THC: High
  • Height Outdoor 200 - 250 cm
  • Height Indoor 50 - 60 cm
  • Harvest Time (Outdoor): Unknown
  • Genetics: Cheese x Super Skunk x Afghani
  • Flowering Time: 7 - 8 Weeks from seed to harvest
  • CBD: High
  • Available as: Feminized seeds
  • Yield (outdoor): 45 - 65 Grams per plant

Zambeza Northern Vision
Only a small group of cannabis strains can lay a claim on being the springboard for all the marijuana genetics that marks today's varieties. One of those is undoubtedly the Northern Vision. It originated as a cross of eleven seeds of different cannabis plants found on the America's west coast. Throughout the years, they were so often hybridised, crossed and bred, that the exact genetics got somehow lost in the mist of history. Whatever its exact origin, one thing is certain - Northern Vision has become the basis, from which dozens of world class cannabis strains grew.

It is said, that the original Northern Vision came from Afghanistan and was a pure Indica. A few of the eleven varieties used to create it, however, are rumoured to have some traces of Thai genetics. The most probable heritage of the Zambeza Seeds Northern Vision is a cross between Afghani, Skunk and Ice. Our feminised seeds still produce a strongly indica plant, though one that reveals significant sativa influence in the structure of its leaves.

Our feminised Northern Vision grows indoor as much as 100-120 cm and easily exceeds 2 m if allowed enough breathing space outdoors. Long, thin leaves and a rather wide internode spacing proves its sativa ancestry. It is only during the flowering period that you will notice its strong indica genetics. Though producing a single huge cola, the plant will be all covered in dense buds with a thick coating of resin.

A one square meter setup with a 600 W light will produce up to 500 g, averaging 30-40 g per plant. Cultivated outdoors it will grow into a real tree that given right weather conditions, proper nutrition and watering could yield 100 g apiece.

The flowering period takes 8 weeks, with some inpatient growers reporting it ready for harvest already after 7 weeks. As it approaches maturity, the buds begin to glitter, as the plant gets all covered in a light coating of resin.

With average high levels of THC and CBD, our Northern Vision guarantees to make you stoned straight after smoking. Once grounded on the couch, you will appreciate the pleasant high flowing straight from its Afghan roots. If you are looking for a strong stoning smoke, Zambeza Seeds Northern Vision feminised is just the right thing for you.


  • THC Average High
  • Genetics Afghani x Super Skunk x Ice
  • Yield Medium
  • Height 100-120 cm
  • Effect Stoned & High
  • CBD Average High
  • Flowering time 7-8 weeks


Royal Queen Amnesia Haze (2004 cannabis cup winner)\
After the haze genetics came to Holland and several hybrids were made, an American expat would later combine one of these hybrids with a male derived from old school haze seeds creating the Amnesia Haze. We felt our collection of marijuana seeds would not be complete without one of the best hazes to ever be smoked, so we got a hold of some Amnesia and made feminised seeds.

Our Amnesia haze is a well maintained plant growing just over a metre tall, to about 1.2m. She can be grown outdoors but will require hot weather like Australia, North Africa and California, however may need to be grown in a greenhouse due to her long flower period.

Amnesia haze is one of our best yielding cannabis strains, producing 70-80 g per plant with up to 600g per metre squared under a 600w light. She can produce big outside, with full sun, reaching as much as 200g per plant. However extra care should be taken outdoors as this is a sensitive plant, so problems with weather, bugs or irrigation will harm your final harvest. 

The only down side with Amnesia haze is the long flower time required of 12 weeks. Although this is high enough to make most commercial growers run for the hills, true cannabis connoisseurs will find the wait more than worth it. Amnesia haze is suitable for both hydro and soil grows, sea/screen of green too.

So after 4 months of growing, 2 weeks of drying and curing and your finally ready to smoke the Amnesia haze that has taken you so long to grow. After your 1st joint or bong we are certain you will be more than satisfied with the smoke after waiting such a long time. Our Amnesia Haze really is one of the best cannabis strains in our entire stock.

Every hit comes with a truly psychedelic head high, likely to send any user straight into the astrosphere. The flavour is fresh and fruity like you expect from a haze which only makes the smoke so much more enjoyable. Smokers are warned this is a strong smoke and, as the name suggests, users can often turn their brains off completely after a session.


  • Type Sativa: 80% Indica 20%
  • Yield 70-80 grams
  • Harvest month October
  • Height of the plant 100-120 cm
  • Genetic background Amnesia Haze
  • Effect Psychedelic high
  • Cannabinoid content Extremely high
  • Flowering time 12 weeks